Chef Kunal Kapur Explains How Jalfrezi Was Born From Leftovers But Became A Worldwide Craze

Chef Kunal Kapur delves into the history of Jalfrezi, a beloved dish that transformed from a creative use of leftovers to a worldwide culinary sensation. With its origins in Colonial Indian kitchens, Jalfrezi combines vibrant spices with quick stir-frying techniques, making it a versatile favourite. Kapur’s insights reveal how this humble dish captured taste buds globally.
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Jalfrezi

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For a country with a sparse number of native dishes worth boasting about, England sure does have a lot of favourites ‘borrowed’ from their erstwhile colonies. On menus across the UK, and indeed beyond, Jalfrezi is a dish sure to crop up over and over again. In a recent post, Chef Kunal Kapur delves deeper into the history of the Jalfrezi dish, tracing it all the way back to colonial-era India and how like so many British Indian dishes, the links between cultures are evident.
Few dishes exemplify the fascinating fusion of British and Indian culinary traditions quite like Jalfrezi. The name itself tells a story - "jhal" meaning spicy and "frezi" meaning stir-fried - perfectly describing this popular curry dish that has become a staple in Indian restaurants worldwide.
The origins of Jalfrezi can be traced back to the British colonial presence in India during the 18th and 19th centuries, particularly in Calcutta (now Kolkata). What began as a practical solution for using leftover roasted meats would eventually evolve into one of the most beloved Indian dishes in the world.
During colonial times, British settlers were fond of their elaborate Sunday roasts, and there was often a lot of leftover meat to deal with. Their chefs, who were primarily from the Mog community - a Buddhist tribe from what is now Bangladesh - would repurpose the leftover meat throughout the week spiced up the meat to better align with the South Asian palate.
The Mogs developed a method of quickly stir-frying the cold cuts with Indian spices in curry pans over smaller fires, adding their own flair to the dish. This practice was significant enough to be documented in an 1880 cookbook published in Calcutta in collaboration with a British publishing house, where it was referred to as "Jalfreezi."
As the dish evolved, it transcended its humble origins as a leftover meal. Different regions in India began adding their own unique touches while maintaining the core concept of a spicy, stir-fried curry. The dish's popularity continued to grow, particularly after the partition of India in 1947, when what are now Pakistan and Bangladesh were part of a larger India.
In modern times, Jalfrezi has become a phenomenon in the United Kingdom, where chicken jalfrezi ranks as one of the most requested dishes in curry houses. These restaurants, often run by Bangladeshi, Pakistani, and Indian proprietors, have continued to innovate with the recipe, incorporating various ingredients such as tomatoes, capsicum, onions, and even ketchup to create their signature versions.
What makes Jalfrezi particularly interesting is its journey from a practical colonial-era solution to a celebrated dish that represents the dynamic nature of Indo-British cuisine. While many popular Indian restaurant dishes can trace their origins to the Indian subcontinent, Jalfrezi stands out as a true fusion creation, born from the intersection of British pragmatism and Indian culinary artistry.
Today, Jalfrezi has evolved far beyond its origins as a way to repurpose leftover roasts. It has become a cultural phenomenon and one of the most popular Indian dishes abroad, demonstrating how necessity, creativity, and cultural exchange can transform a simple cooking method into a globally beloved curry.
Try out this easy recipe to make Chicken Jalfrezi at home.
Ingredients
  • 1/4 cup neutral oil
  • 1 tsp cumin seeds
  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
  • 5-6 garlic cloves, crushed or finely chopped
  • 1-inch ginger, crushed or finely chopped
  • 500 g boneless chicken thighs or breast
  • 2 tsp coriander powder
  • 1 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
  • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
  • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
  • 1/4-1/2 tsp garam masala (start with 1/4 tsp if store-bought)
  • 1/4 tsp ground black pepper
  • 1 1/8 tsp sea salt
  • 3 small tomatoes (approx. 300-330 g), pureed
  • 2 tsp tomato paste (optional)
  • 1 small green bell pepper, diced
  • 1 small red bell pepper, diced
  • 1/2 small onion, diced
  • 1-2 small green chillies, diced
  • 1 tbsp soy sauce
  • 1 tbsp ketchup
  • 1 tsp white vinegar or rice vinegar
  • 1 tsp lemon juice or lime juice
  • 1 tbsp fresh cilantro, for garnish (optional)
Method
  • Heat 1/4 cup oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add cumin seeds and allow them to sizzle. Add finely chopped onion and sauté until golden, about 7-8 minutes. Add garlic and ginger, then sauté for another minute until aromatic.
  • Add the cubed chicken to the pan and sauté until it changes colour from pink to pale, approximately 3 minutes.
  • Add coriander powder, Kashmiri red chilli powder or paprika, turmeric, garam masala, red chilli powder, black pepper, and salt. Sauté for 1-2 minutes until the oil begins to separate from the mixture.
  • Stir in the puréed tomatoes and tomato paste, if using. Sauté for 5-6 minutes until the tomatoes are fully cooked and the oil begins to glisten.
  • Add the cubed bell peppers, optional cubed onion, green chillies, soy sauce, ketchup, and vinegar. Sauté for 4-5 minutes until the bell peppers have softened. If the mixture becomes too dry, add 1/4 cup (60 ml) water to achieve your desired consistency.
  • Turn off the heat. Squeeze in the lemon juice and garnish with fresh cilantro, if desired.
  • Serve immediately with roti, paratha, naan, or rice.
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    Shireen Jamooji author

    A Mumbai-based writer whose greatest motivator in life is planning the next meal. She's always the first one to try something new and the stranger the...View More

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